Of a frontier between Costa Rica and Nicaragua

6 12 2010

The San Juan river flows calmly in the caribbean lowlands of Central America. It is a peaceful sight: rolling hills, lush rainforest, tropical humidity and a remarkable biodiversity. The river is deep enough for medium sized ships to navigate it all the way into great the Nicaragua or Cocibolca lake. It is a unique ecosystem and a tropical paradise with a immense ecotouristic potential.

Now, the problem is the San Juan river is also the border between Costa Rica and Nicaragua. This means that it has been a hot topic in the diplomatic relationship of both countries for more than a couple of centuries. Even with the mediation of US Presidents over 100 years ago and a few bilateral agreements this topic is far from cooling off. In fact, it is getting hotter.

First, I must admit this is peanuts for the world, but there has been some press coverage, because the news definetly will catch your interest. There was some dubious involvement of Google through their Google Maps. There is a former Guerrilla Leader involved. The Organization of American States (OAS) has failed in mediating, while loosing credibility. There are talks of a trans-ocean channel funded by Iran and Venezuela, but on the other hand a damm has been mentioned.

The plain facts are less. Nicaraguan military forces occupy the northern tip of Calero Island, which is Costa Rican territory. A old arm of the San Juan is being dredged by the Nicaraguan Government to divert the main flow through a shorter route to the Caribbean, but destroying a valuable ecosystem, declared a National Wildlife Refuge and an Important Bird Area; by Costa Rica of course.

Not wanting to waste on the evident, there are some worrying side effects that have risen with this issue. They are worrying because they reveal a cultural, political and diplomatic reality unknown to many of us and because they make clear evidence Central America is far from becoming a ‘developed’ region.

The spark of nationalism lit a dangerous xenophobia. While it is a common phenomenon, what is surprising is the large mass of people, in both countries, whose opinion of the folk on the other side of the river has worsened significantly. Being a Costa Rican by birth, I know the story more from the southern side, but I do not respect the opinions of many ‘ticos‘. Since I am abroad, I rely on comments left online on a local newspaper. Too keep it short, the most disturbing suggestion has been to create and equip a strong military force to repel the invading troops. This is outrageous in a country that has worked long and hard to rid itself from the dangers and vices of a military power. How can we be ready to give all this up so quickly?

A good friend suggested this may be due to ignorance. Education in Costa Rica is good and widespread, and most would agree, but knowing how to read and write does not mean one is educated. This is only one sad example of our reality, but if this was true, there is much work to be done in education.

A binational conflict always arises from small disagreements. This is clearly the case. The stubborness of the Nicaraguan Government to remain on Costa Rican territory, even after being unable to prove the contrary, is embarrasing. But what I find most astonishing is that no nation has made a clear statement about the case. It is not only about the environmental damage, or about the presence of the military. It is about disrespecting a common treaty, an agreement of both sides. How much longer will the world watch in silence? The silence only reassures the invaders and may inspire further disregards, here or elwhere. The silence is a message of tolerance towards what is beyond all bearing.